[Hpn] SLOW FOOD TO FEED HOMELESS

William Charles Tinker wtinker@metrocast.net
Thu, 20 Oct 2005 02:42:03 -0400


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Slow Food to feed homeless
Carol Ness, Chronicle Staff Writer

Wednesday, October 19, 2005


      =20
    =20
      =20


  Several hundred people gathered at long tables next to a pristine =
Sonoma County vineyard on a recent Sunday to sample artisanal goat =
cheeses and local Sauvignon Blanc, and lunch on Mendocino-raised =
grass-fed beef burgers, homemade ketchup and native Gravenstein apple =
galettes, all for $90 a head.=20

  It was a benefit for Slow Food, the international movement dedicated =
to saving the world from fast food, and the scene was a perfect =
depiction of what many people expect of Slow Food.=20

  But Slow Food in a San Francisco homeless shelter?=20

  Don't choke on your fair-trade coffee. It's about to happen. The idea =
sprang up last week when Carlo Petrini, founder of the international =
movement, broke pain au levain with San Francisco Mayor Gavin Newsom at =
Chez Panisse during a seven-day swing through the Bay Area from his home =
in Italy's Piedmont. A few days earlier, he had spoken at the benefit =
lunch.=20

  "Overcoming the perception of elitism in people's minds around things =
like organic foods and farmers' markets" is one of the biggest =
challenges Slow Food faces in its effort to bring the world's breakfast, =
lunch and dinner back to basics, Petrini said, through a translator, =
during an interview over mahi mahi tacos at Mijita, Traci Des Jardins' =
slow-food Mexican place at San Francisco's Ferry Building.=20

  Getting Slow Food involved in improving the food at a homeless shelter =
is just the kind of bolt from blue that tends to materialize when =
Petrini is around. He's both galvanizer and pied piper, with just the =
Italian combination of vision and humor, passion, charm and grizzled =
elegance to make things happen.=20

  Everyday food traditions=20

  Petrini, who writes about food and wine, started out as a political =
activist during Italy's upheaval of the 1970s, and then focused his =
activism on protecting everyday food traditions from industrialization.=20

  He and like-minded friends started a precursor group called Arcigola =
in 1986, which became Slow Food International in 1989; the movement now =
has 80,000 members in 130 countries, joining organic endive farmers in =
the Bay Area with subsistence farmers in Africa and nomadic sheepherders =
in Asia.=20

  Slow Food, which aims to return agriculture and food production to its =
healthy, earth-friendly and biodiverse roots, has become a force in =
local and worldwide fights over genetically modified foods, among other =
food battlegrounds. For his efforts as founder and leader, Petrini was =
named a Hero of 2004 by Time magazine's Europe edition last year.=20

  Thirty local chapters=20

  He drops by the Bay Area about every year to raise money and tap into =
what's going on in Slow Food's 30 Bay Area chapters, which have some =
2,500 members.=20

  He also manages to eat some good meals. After dinner last week at San =
Francisco's A16, he proclaimed it "the first Italian restaurant I like =
-- outside Italy." (And for the record, yes, he's eaten at New York's =
Babbo.)=20

  "Eating is an act of love," he told supporters at the sun-dappled =
benefit in a Kunde family vineyard in Windsor that's described above. =
That's the philosophy underpinning Slow Food.=20

  A few days later at Chez Panisse, a wellspring of the Bay Area's =
local-sustainable food ethic, Petrini shared a table of eight with owner =
Alice Waters, a Slow Food International vice president, and San =
Francisco Mayor Newsom.=20

  As Newsom tells it, ideas collided over spit-roasted organic lamb. A =
broad discussion of how to bring Slow Food's image more in line with its =
populist goals segued into Newsom's account of all the complaints he =
gets about food at San Francisco's second-largest homeless shelter, Next =
Door, on Polk Street near City Hall.=20

  "It occurred to me that this was a great opportunity for Slow Food to =
substantively and symbolically make the case that this is not an elitist =
endeavor and to fill a need," Newsom said.=20

  Before they got to the Champagne granita, Petrini was on board.=20

  Newsom said he planned to start hammering out details this week. The =
idea is that Slow Food would provide expertise and resources to both =
feed people better and teach them about eating well, he said.=20

  "It shouldn't cost any more," he said. "If we do it right, it can be =
replicated at other public health institutions," including San Francisco =
General and Laguna Honda hospitals.=20

  High costs of cheap food=20

  Arguments that poor people can't afford high-quality food don't fly =
with Petrini. It doesn't have to be fancy food, he says; it has to be =
good, clean and fair.=20

  Cheap food isn't a bargain, he says, when you add in the high costs of =
obesity, environmental destruction and food-borne illnesses.=20

  "I don't think we can any longer afford to ask for food that costs =
less," he said.=20

  And he makes the case that anyone, even the poorest people, can afford =
to eat better food if they make it a priority.=20

  "It's a life choice," he says. "In Italy, many poor people spend a lot =
of money just to go to a soccer match." Or on cell phones.=20

  The Bay Area gets the Slow Food idea better than the rest of the =
United States, Petrini says, adding, "It's a very different sensibility =
here, a different vision of how one lives one's life."=20

  As a result, more farmers and other artisanal food producers from the =
Bay Area than from any other U.S. region will be invited to Terra Madre =
2006, Slow Food's second international gathering.=20

  The first Terra Madre, in 2004, brought 5,000 fishermen and farmers, =
cheesemakers and nomad gatherers, to Turin, Italy, to make connections =
and feed off one another's ideas.=20

  Bay Area participants=20

  About 1,000 chefs will be added to the mix in 2006, Petrini says, =
including at least 10 from the Bay Area. He wants at least one from each =
of the 130 countries where Slow Food is active -- not just the star =
chefs but everyday cooks, too.=20

  By the time he left the Bay Area on Friday, he'd already invited five =
(in addition to Waters), after meeting them and eating their food: =
Slanted Door's Charles Phan, Mijita's Des Jardins, A16's Christophe =
Hille and Amaryll Schwertner and Lori Regis of Boulette's Larder.=20

  "I have to stop, or the chefs will all be from San Francisco," he =
said.=20



-------------------------------------------------------------------------=
-----
  On the snail's trail=20
  Slow Food's international symbol is a garden pest and French delicacy =
-- the snail. To find out more about Slow Food International, go to =
slowfood.com.=20

  For the lowdown on Slow Food USA, and to locate Bay Area chapters, =
called convivia, go to slowfoodusa.org.=20

  E-mail Carol Ness at cness@sfchronicle.com.=20

  Page F - 1

http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=3D/c/a/2005/10/19/FDGSJF7RHI1=
.DTL
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<H1><FONT size=3D4>Slow Food to feed homeless</FONT></H1>
<H2><FONT size=3D3></FONT></H2><!-- END HEADLINE/DECK & =
SUBHEADLINE/SUBDECK -->
<P class=3Dauthor><FONT size=3D1><!-- START WRITER CREDIT--><A=20
href=3D"mailto:cness@sfchronicle.com">Carol Ness, Chronicle Staff=20
Writer</A></FONT></P>
<P class=3Ddate><FONT size=3D1>Wednesday, October 19,=20
2005<!-- END WRITER CREDIT--></FONT></P><!-- end #contentheader --><!-- =
<hr> now part of stylesheet <hr noshade size=3D"1" color=3D"#CCC" =
/>--><!-- START STORY -->
<DIV class=3Dclear>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV id=3Dcontentbody><!-- START OBJECT THUMBS AREA-->
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      <DIV id=3Dcontentobjects><A=20
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href=3D"http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/object/article?f=3D/c/a/2005/10/19/=
FDGSJF7RHI1.DTL&amp;o=3D0"=20
      target=3D""><IMG=20
      alt=3D"Carlo Petrini talks with chef Traci Des Jardins (in =
foreg..."=20
      =
src=3D"http://www.sfgate.com/c/pictures/2005/10/19_t/fd_slowfood_1_t.gif"=
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--></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><SPAN=20
  class=3Dalthead><FONT size=3D2><STRONG>
  <P>
  <H3></H3>
  <P></P></STRONG></FONT></SPAN><FONT size=3D2>
  <P>Several hundred people gathered at long tables next to a pristine =
Sonoma=20
  County vineyard on a recent Sunday to sample artisanal goat cheeses =
and local=20
  Sauvignon Blanc, and lunch on Mendocino-raised grass-fed beef burgers, =

  homemade ketchup and native Gravenstein apple galettes, all for $90 a =
head.=20
  <P>It was a benefit for Slow Food, the international movement =
dedicated to=20
  saving the world from fast food, and the scene was a perfect depiction =
of what=20
  many people expect of Slow Food.=20
  <P>But Slow Food in a San Francisco homeless shelter?=20
  <P>Don't choke on your fair-trade coffee. It's about to happen. The =
idea=20
  sprang up last week when Carlo Petrini, founder of the international =
movement,=20
  broke pain au levain with San Francisco Mayor Gavin Newsom at Chez =
Panisse=20
  during a seven-day swing through the Bay Area from his home in Italy's =

  Piedmont. A few days earlier, he had spoken at the benefit lunch.=20
  <P>"Overcoming the perception of elitism in people's minds around =
things like=20
  organic foods and farmers' markets" is one of the biggest challenges =
Slow Food=20
  faces in its effort to bring the world's breakfast, lunch and dinner =
back to=20
  basics, Petrini said, through a translator, during an interview over =
mahi mahi=20
  tacos at Mijita, Traci Des Jardins' slow-food Mexican place at San =
Francisco's=20
  Ferry Building.=20
  <P>Getting Slow Food involved in improving the food at a homeless =
shelter is=20
  just the kind of bolt from blue that tends to materialize when Petrini =
is=20
  around. He's both galvanizer and pied piper, with just the Italian =
combination=20
  of vision and humor, passion, charm and grizzled elegance to make =
things=20
  happen.=20
  <P>Everyday food traditions=20
  <P>Petrini, who writes about food and wine, started out as a political =

  activist during Italy's upheaval of the 1970s, and then focused his =
activism=20
  on protecting everyday food traditions from industrialization.=20
  <P>He and like-minded friends started a precursor group called =
Arcigola in=20
  1986, which became Slow Food International in 1989; the movement now =
has=20
  80,000 members in 130 countries, joining organic endive farmers in the =
Bay=20
  Area with subsistence farmers in Africa and nomadic sheepherders in =
Asia.=20
  <P>Slow Food, which aims to return agriculture and food production to =
its=20
  healthy, earth-friendly and biodiverse roots, has become a force in =
local and=20
  worldwide fights over genetically modified foods, among other food=20
  battlegrounds. For his efforts as founder and leader, Petrini was =
named a Hero=20
  of 2004 by Time magazine's Europe edition last year.=20
  <P>Thirty local chapters=20
  <P>He drops by the Bay Area about every year to raise money and tap =
into=20
  what's going on in Slow Food's 30 Bay Area chapters, which have some =
2,500=20
  members.=20
  <P>He also manages to eat some good meals. After dinner last week at =
San=20
  Francisco's A16, he proclaimed it "the first Italian restaurant I like =
--=20
  outside Italy." (And for the record, yes, he's eaten at New York's =
Babbo.)=20
  <P>"Eating is an act of love," he told supporters at the sun-dappled =
benefit=20
  in a Kunde family vineyard in Windsor that's described above. That's =
the=20
  philosophy underpinning Slow Food.=20
  <P>A few days later at Chez Panisse, a wellspring of the Bay Area's=20
  local-sustainable food ethic, Petrini shared a table of eight with =
owner Alice=20
  Waters, a Slow Food International vice president, and San Francisco =
Mayor=20
  Newsom.=20
  <P>As Newsom tells it, ideas collided over spit-roasted organic lamb. =
A broad=20
  discussion of how to bring Slow Food's image more in line with its =
populist=20
  goals segued into Newsom's account of all the complaints he gets about =
food at=20
  San Francisco's second-largest homeless shelter, Next Door, on Polk =
Street=20
  near City Hall.=20
  <P>"It occurred to me that this was a great opportunity for Slow Food =
to=20
  substantively and symbolically make the case that this is not an =
elitist=20
  endeavor and to fill a need," Newsom said.=20
  <P>Before they got to the Champagne granita, Petrini was on board.=20
  <P>Newsom said he planned to start hammering out details this week. =
The idea=20
  is that Slow Food would provide expertise and resources to both feed =
people=20
  better and teach them about eating well, he said.=20
  <P>"It shouldn't cost any more," he said. "If we do it right, it can =
be=20
  replicated at other public health institutions," including San =
Francisco=20
  General and Laguna Honda hospitals.=20
  <P>High costs of cheap food=20
  <P>Arguments that poor people can't afford high-quality food don't fly =
with=20
  Petrini. It doesn't have to be fancy food, he says; it has to be good, =
clean=20
  and fair.=20
  <P>Cheap food isn't a bargain, he says, when you add in the high costs =
of=20
  obesity, environmental destruction and food-borne illnesses.=20
  <P>"I don't think we can any longer afford to ask for food that costs =
less,"=20
  he said.=20
  <P>And he makes the case that anyone, even the poorest people, can =
afford to=20
  eat better food if they make it a priority.=20
  <P>"It's a life choice," he says. "In Italy, many poor people spend a =
lot of=20
  money just to go to a soccer match." Or on cell phones.=20
  <P>The Bay Area gets the Slow Food idea better than the rest of the =
United=20
  States, Petrini says, adding, "It's a very different sensibility here, =
a=20
  different vision of how one lives one's life."=20
  <P>As a result, more farmers and other artisanal food producers from =
the Bay=20
  Area than from any other U.S. region will be invited to Terra Madre =
2006, Slow=20
  Food's second international gathering.=20
  <P>The first Terra Madre, in 2004, brought 5,000 fishermen and =
farmers,=20
  cheesemakers and nomad gatherers, to Turin, Italy, to make connections =
and=20
  feed off one another's ideas.=20
  <P>Bay Area participants=20
  <P>About 1,000 chefs will be added to the mix in 2006, Petrini says, =
including=20
  at least 10 from the Bay Area. He wants at least one from each of the =
130=20
  countries where Slow Food is active -- not just the star chefs but =
everyday=20
  cooks, too.=20
  <P>By the time he left the Bay Area on Friday, he'd already invited =
five (in=20
  addition to Waters), after meeting them and eating their food: Slanted =
Door's=20
  Charles Phan, Mijita's Des Jardins, A16's Christophe Hille and Amaryll =

  Schwertner and Lori Regis of Boulette's Larder.=20
  <P>"I have to stop, or the chefs will all be from San Francisco," he =
said.=20
<BR>
  <HR>
  On the snail's trail=20
  <P>Slow Food's international symbol is a garden pest and French =
delicacy --=20
  the snail. To find out more about Slow Food International, go to =
slowfood.com.=20

  <P>For the lowdown on Slow Food USA, and to locate Bay Area chapters, =
called=20
  convivia, go to slowfoodusa.org.=20
  <P><I>E-mail Carol Ness at <A=20
  href=3D"mailto:cness@sfchronicle.com">cness@sfchronicle.com</A>.</I> =
</FONT><!-- END STORY -->
  <P class=3Dpagenumber>Page&nbsp;F -=20
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SJF7RHI1.DTL">http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=3D/c/a/2005/10/=
19/FDGSJF7RHI1.DTL</A></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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